After nearly a century in the shadows, Irish whiskey is bouncing back to its former dominance. It’s all explained by beverage expert and writer David Wondrich, who details the trajectory and evolution of Irish bars in the United States since the 17th century in his foreword to “Paddy Drinks: The World of Modern Irish Whiskey Cocktails”. . The book, written by most of the partners at the Dead Rabbit, a well-known bar in Lower Manhattan, is an updated treatise on whiskey, defining its four styles: pot still, malt, grain and blended. There are details for around 50 labels, and the book serves as a technical primer on Irish whiskey cocktails and how to construct them. After the recipes for six classics, there are dozens of Dead Rabbit creations, most of which call for esoteric ingredients like tonka bean syrup, za’atar tincture, and roasted fennel salt (recipes are provided ). There are a few more pantry-friendly options, like head bartender Jillian Vose’s deliciously bitter Broadway Junction and the Precision Pilot, which she says was one of the first drinks she created at the bar. .
“Paddy Drinks: The World of Modern Irish Whiskey Cocktails” by Jillian Vose, Jack McGarry, Sean Muldoon and Conor Kelly (Mariner Books, $28).